{"id":2801,"date":"2026-09-25T21:16:08","date_gmt":"2026-09-25T21:16:08","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.eylar.com\/press\/?p=2801"},"modified":"2026-10-14T17:38:17","modified_gmt":"2026-10-14T17:38:17","slug":"camera-travel-case-sizing-guide","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.eylar.com\/press\/camera-travel-case-sizing-guide\/","title":{"rendered":"Camera Travel Case: How to Size a Hard Case to Your Kit"},"content":{"rendered":"

The right camera travel case<\/strong> is chosen from the inside out. Measure your tallest packed item first, add the foam above and below it, then compare that number to a case’s interior<\/em> depth \u2014 not its exterior. The most common sizing mistake is skipping that step: someone matches a body-plus-lens to the outside dimensions on a listing, the case arrives, and the lid won’t close because the foam in the lid takes up depth that was never subtracted.<\/p>\n

Here’s a repeatable method for sizing a hard case<\/a> to a mirrorless or DSLR kit, plus what changes when the case has to pass as carry-on instead of riding under the plane.<\/p>\n

Step 1: Measure the kit, not the bag<\/h2>\n

Empty your current bag onto a table and measure each item the way it will actually travel. Use a tape measure and write everything down in inches.<\/p>\n

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  1. Body with a lens attached.<\/strong> If you travel with a lens mounted, measure the whole assembly from the base of the body to the front of the hood (hood reversed). This is usually your depth driver.<\/li>\n
  2. Each spare lens twice:<\/strong> once lying down (length x diameter) and once standing on its mount (diameter x height). Standing lenses save floor space but demand depth.<\/li>\n
  3. Flat items:<\/strong> filters, card wallets, batteries, charger, cables. These stack in the lid area or in a thin top layer.<\/li>\n
  4. Odd shapes:<\/strong> a folding drone, a gimbal, a small recorder, a mic. Measure the longest dimension folded.<\/li>\n
  5. Total weight.<\/strong> Weigh the pile on a bathroom scale. Airlines care about weight, and a full hard case plus gear adds up faster than a soft bag.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    Now lay the items out on a sheet of paper or cardboard: draw a rectangle at the case’s interior length and width, then arrange the real gear inside the lines. You’ll know in two minutes whether a layout works, and you’ll see where the leftover space is for batteries and cards.<\/p>\n

    Step 2: Subtract the foam before you compare numbers<\/h2>\n

    Interior depth is not usable depth. A standard Eylar\u00ae hard case ships with layered foam: a convoluted (egg-crate) layer that sits in the lid, one or more pick-and-pluck layers in the middle, and a solid pad on the bottom. The lid layer and the base pad both take up depth, and both are doing real work \u2014 the lid foam is what keeps gear from shifting upward when the case is dropped.<\/p>\n

    A simple rule for planning:<\/p>\n